Thursday 28 January 2016

3rd year exhibition at the Minnories

This week I independently visited the Minnories Gallery in Colchester to view the 3rd year fashion and textile student's showcase of work. Each project was entirely different from each other however next to each other they didn't clash at all.

I really enjoyed looking at their work as it helps inform myself on the standard of work I will need to work towards in my third year, thinking about portfolio pages and layouts is an extremely important piece of our degree. Our portfolio is almost like a mini showcase or CV of out work to share our potential with potential career opportunities. Although I am comfortable and confident with using photoshop and illustrator to create digital designs, prints and portfolio pages, I do feel like I haven't quite established my own style of work in this field as of yet which is why I find it useful to view others to grasp an idea of various styles and standards.

I thought the exhibition space was laid out well with work innovatively showcased on the walls with garments in the middle of the room, ensuring the room was filled with lots to look at without being cluttered and chaotic.

Monday 11 January 2016

Seminar with Gill discussing the previous lecture with Dr Pete Gurney

Thorstein Veblen – The theory of the leisure classes

“In order to gain and hold the esteem of men it is not sufficient to possess wealth and power. The wealth and power must be put in evidence for stem is only awarded on evidence.” – you’re judged on your possessions and not how you are as a person. You’re not saying anything but you’re showing your wealth.

“Waste is a conspicuous example of wealth”

Waste “for the purposes of reputability lies in the element of waste that is common to both. In case it is a waste of time and effort in the other it is a waste of goods”

We are ever consuming. Its all about a brand of ethic that we follow.

The fashion industry is dominated by consumer needs.

Obsolescence (unique) fashion is constantly changing.

Vivienne Westwood quote – ‘buy less choose well’.

Our generation is the generation to consider whether things need to be changed.
We need clothes to protect ourselves however we need identity otherwise everyone would become aforesaid. It is about the ability to be able to choose.

Social media (facebook, Instagram etc.) – makes people want what they have. Celebrities like to show their power and wealth, but also their waste. They often wear things once then throw away once it is no longer in trend or even if it has become in trend.

We’re looking at a world of consumption and cultural consumption.


Jessi Arrington – Wearing nothing new
Now buys her clothes second hand because of the impact on the environment and her wallet. Makes shopping fun, refers to it as a ‘treasure hunt’.
“Be who you are” but how difficult is it exactly to be who you are?

The clothes that you wear is important to who you are. Fashion and consumerism sometimes make us wear things to make us want to fit in with rather than what we would like.

You don’t need to have new clothes constantly, its what you do in them and how they make you feel i.e. comfortable or good memories wearing them.

Would you think about affordability? How do you feel about the poverty? Fashion designers being wealthier and make lots of money out of people who cant afford it? China?

China is over populated, polluted, industrial, illness from pollution, wealthy divide, (ethics of the wealthy society), over crowding (in factories and in the country itself), traditionally set in the ways, ‘made in china’ production.

What is China predominantly as a country? How does it rule? – Technology, Capitalist or communist? What did it use to be? Used to be communist then it turned capitalist. China adds to our consumerist needs. Most products, clothes etc. is made in China.

Would wear a item of clothing was made or how it was produced effect your decision to buy it?

The Global Goals: #12 Responsible Consumption and Production

Everyone picks one and helps to that cause over the next 15 years.

To be obsessed with the consumer culture is ethically or morally wrong, but can you come back from it?

The gullibility of people who have nothing and have the temptation for bigger, better and more expensive things add to the consumerism. I.e. Credit cards, Littlewoods, Argos. (APR%)

Boxing day sales, New years day sales.

Christmas is not as much as a religious holiday anymore. It is a consumerist holiday, it is more about who got what and how much people bought or spent on others. Is that ethical?

You could easily shop online for most things in this day and age, maybe in 20 years there will be no shops or high streets. Now that’s a scary thought.

(We are allowed to use social media in our essays but use some balance to it)

Your money is your vote.


The Consumer in History – Dr Peter Gurney (notes)

Concepts and themes
-               Hegemony of the modern consumer
-               Identify and ‘freedom of choice’
-               Consumption, social protest and political change
-               Limits of ‘consumer society’
-               Consumption and the environment

Citizen consumers – i.e. if we go into a NHS hospital now, they don’t view us as patients but consumers.

Its often assumed that we express who we are as people, we expect to have the freedom to choose how we consume.

The idea of freedom of choice is bound up in the Cold War..

We expect to be not slaves at work and not expect to express ourselves at work and have a limited freedom – unfulfilling jobs.

Shopping is political, not in terms of political parties. Political with a small ‘P’.

The golden age of capitalism, from the end of the 2nd world war to the late 70’s: more fridges, record players, cars etc.

‘Consumer society’ was originally used as a negative, it feminised people. They worried about consumption and was a demonilising effect on the society.

The term limits of ‘consumer society’ suggests that we’re all in it, we all partake in it. So the question is, who is left out? Who can’t consume?

There is a lack of will to stop consumerism.

Barbara Kruger ‘I shop therefore I am’ (1987) a take on.. ‘s ‘I something therefore I am’ (look it up)

She uses a credit card shape – we’re nothing without credit/debit cards now.

Pete Betts ‘Post-Communism’ (1990) – Whats it saying about Lenny? What’s it saying about the dream of post economy? It is becoming more Capitalist. If we could paraphrase the image it shows that communism has failed, is it because of the cold war, nuclear bombs? Or is it because he’s gone to tescos? There again its freedom of choice.

Communism is eradicated.

The lure of that has undermined the communist utopia.

Ingram Pinn, Financial Times 13 August 2011 – What is wrong with Britain? Britain is broken. MPs expenses, Bankers bonuses and a regular person with adidas shoes.

Nike ‘sweatshops’ in China – working all hours for little money. Making cheap consumer goods to fund is in the West. This is why our consumer base has collapsed in the past 40-50 years.

Anti-Nike poster – using ‘Slavery’ with their logo as the ‘V’
‘If the shoe fits’ – it uses an image of a shoe squishing one of the workers.

Adulteration: no horsemeat sold here (2013) Manufactories want to make more from the product so they adulterate everything. The worst forms have been stopped, but nevertheless it still happens everyday.

British Gas (Centrica) first half profits for 2015: £528 million: ‘profiteering’? – Privatised under the Tories, they took public assets including British gas and sold them off as shares. They kept the name as it was patriotic and was like a seal of approval.

Profiteering – a charge against capitalist companies use in the cold war, there was a language you could use to criticise when we were getting ‘ripped off’.

Deaths from hypothermia from 2005-2013 of persons aged 65 years and over (England and Wales) – Shut out of consumerist prices, they cant afford the gas.

Number of deaths where hypothermia was mentioned on the death certificate of persons 65 years and over 2005-2013.

Food banks - biggest provider is Trussell Food Banks.

‘Conspicuous Consumption’ – high end – Rolls Royce

and Lower end – Fiat 500’s 5 years credit APR% etc, Makeup.

‘Private debt is good, public debt is bad’ Government have used the crash to minimised private debt.

Global warming – Extinction of polar bears. He predicts they will be extinct in our life time.


The 18th Century Origins of Consumer Society
-               A consumer revolution?
-               Class, gender and consumerism?
-               Empire and commodities: sugar boycotts
-               Hazlitt’s critique of fashion

The earlier slave commodities was for cotton, tea, sugar.

Josiah Wedgewood (1730-1795) workers were massed together to create products cheaply and quickly which creates an explosions of products on the market.


Fantasy, desire and Victorian consumer culture:
-               Rise of the mass market
-               Invention of the ‘consumer’
-               Great exhibition 1851
-               Development of department stores

19th Century created classes of people. And with that the middle class continuously grows.

The 1840s used to be called ‘the hungry 40s’ as many people starved to death. There was depression. Most workers were consuming more than they had. They benefited from the consumption opportunities.

Making Britain one of the oldest capitalist consumerist countries in the world.

You cannot satisfy a consumer. Desire is always the downfall; you get the 5 series BMW but then want the 7 series.

George Cruikshank: Consuming anxieties series (1800ish)- illustrates the negativities of consumers.

Avid consumers – interior design, gardening, cooking – all domestic consumerism. The Victorians are to blame for that, created interior designs, gardens. (It is not all negative aspects)

Primark – CONSUMERISM COMPANY – How can these goods be made at this price? Because the workers cost/paid so little.

The Great Exhibition, Hyde Park, London 1851 – a showcase of British commodities, of British capitalism. It was effectively a huge department store.

George Cruikshank illustrated the closing of The Great Exhibition with the goods spread out to the rest of the world. Which is exactly what happened, the Exhibitions spread across the countries.

Democratic Alternatives to Capitalist Consumerism:
-               Consumer organising and class conflict
-               Regulating the market
-               Revolution or reform: moralising capitalism?
-               Co-operation or competition?

They took the profits which were made from the products and gave it back to the public. They would give back 15% percent of what they’ve spent.


Co-ops now try to regulate the market and empower the consumers.