gold cropped top construction

Creating the pattern pieces for the gold cropped top

(using the close fitting body shape block UK Size 10)

  

·       Trace close fitting body shape block

·       Measure 10cm down from neckline and draw across a straight horizontal line from the CF for the yoke seam

·       Mark 25cm from the neckline down for the hem at the CF

·       Measure 19.3cm down from the bottom of the arm and curve off from the CF to this mark, making a curved hem

·       Cut out the negative space of the block and use this curve as a guide for the curved back

·       Widen the neckline on the front and back blocks by 4cm and 1cm down

·       Measure the neckline from CF to shoulder and the same on the back, CB to shoulder and add the measurements together

·       Create a straight line the length of the added number (27.5cm), split and widen top of neckline by 2cm

Construction of the close fitting cropped top

(size 10)

Use:

Straight stitch sewing machine

5 stitch overlocker

Coverstitch machine

·      Cut out fabric using pattern pieces

·      Use the yoke of the front fuse where the zip is going to sit and using a straight stitch machine start stitching the 6” concealed zip with one half of the pocket bag trapped in between

·      Repeat on the bottom half of the top

·      Use the 5 stitch overlocker to stitch across either side of the zips (if the overlocker cannot reach this far, use the straight stitch inbetween)

·      Overlock the pocket bag together (sides and bottom)

·      Overlock the back yoke to the bottom half of the top back

·      Overlock the shoulders and side seams, RS together

·      Use the overlocker to neaten the armhole edges and hem of top

·      Press the edges of the arm and hem 1cm inwards and use the coverstich machine (RS up) to create a double stitched hem along edges

·      Use the overlocker to stitch down the side seam on the collar and neaten the edge of the collar

·      Press the edge of the collar 2cm inwards

·      Make a mark where the eyelet holes will go on the RS of fabric, apply fusing to this area on the inside of the garment

·      Press the eyelets in place on the collar

·      Overlock the collar to the neckline, lining up the side seam of the collar with the right shoulder seam

·      Thread the rounded elastic through the eyelets and round the collar, use the coverstitch machine to trap the elastic in the collar (without stitching on the elastic

·      Apply elastic toggle/stoppers and elastic ends to the drawstring

I constructed the toile of my close fitting cropped top for my gold outfit using a jersey fabric with a similar stretch to the gold lycra fabrics that I’ll be using for my final garment. In my original design I put a concealed zip inside the yoke with a pocket bag, I added this into the garment construction. As for this project I am focusing solely on fashion construction, I wanted to challenge myself and apply my technical pattern cutting and construction skills. However Once seeing the outcome of my toile I have realised that the pocket bag was an issue, because of the stretch fabric the 5 stitch overlocker is the machine needed to join the fabrics together rather than a straight stitch machine. Due to the bulkiness of the zip and the overlocker it was difficult to get the stitching as close to the seams around the zip and zip itself, creating unpleasant folds and lines around the yoke seam and zip. The weight of the fabric is also an issue with the pocket bag, as my idea was for the pocket to be hidden and as you can see from the photographs and the toile itself the bag is extremely visible. I will experiment with other ways I can create this toile until it is successful, perhaps I could add a wider zip into the yoke seam as a decoration without a pocket bag. I really love the effect of the drawstring collar and think it is extremely successful. I’m glad that I widened the top of the collar to create a more dramatic effect that the collar has and am looking forward to seeing it on the final garment. I will next experiment the drawstring collar in the desired fabric to ensure I will be happy with the end result.