Creating the pattern pieces for the gold cropped top
(using the close fitting body shape
block UK Size 10)
·
Trace close fitting body
shape block
·
Measure
10cm down from neckline and draw across a straight horizontal line from the CF
for the yoke seam
·
Mark 25cm from the
neckline down for the hem at the CF
·
Measure 19.3cm down from
the bottom of the arm and curve off from the CF to this mark, making a curved
hem
·
Cut out the negative space
of the block and use this curve as a guide for the curved back
·
Widen the neckline on the
front and back blocks by 4cm and 1cm down
·
Measure the neckline from
CF to shoulder and the same on the back, CB to shoulder and add the
measurements together
·
Create a straight line the
length of the added number (27.5cm), split and widen top of neckline by 2cm
Construction
of the close fitting cropped top
(size
10)
Use:
Straight
stitch sewing machine
5 stitch
overlocker
Coverstitch
machine
·
Cut
out fabric using pattern pieces
·
Use
the yoke of the front fuse where the zip is going to sit and using a straight
stitch machine start stitching the 6” concealed zip with one half of the pocket
bag trapped in between
·
Repeat
on the bottom half of the top
·
Use
the 5 stitch overlocker to stitch across either side of the zips (if the overlocker
cannot reach this far, use the straight stitch inbetween)
·
Overlock
the pocket bag together (sides and bottom)
·
Overlock
the back yoke to the bottom half of the top back
·
Overlock
the shoulders and side seams, RS together
·
Use
the overlocker to neaten the armhole edges and hem of top
·
Press
the edges of the arm and hem 1cm inwards and use the coverstich machine (RS up)
to create a double stitched hem along edges
·
Use
the overlocker to stitch down the side seam on the collar and neaten the edge
of the collar
·
Press
the edge of the collar 2cm inwards
·
Make
a mark where the eyelet holes will go on the RS of fabric, apply fusing to this
area on the inside of the garment
·
Press
the eyelets in place on the collar
·
Overlock
the collar to the neckline, lining up the side seam of the collar with the
right shoulder seam
·
Thread
the rounded elastic through the eyelets and round the collar, use the
coverstitch machine to trap the elastic in the collar (without stitching on the
elastic
·
Apply
elastic toggle/stoppers and elastic ends to the drawstring





I
constructed the toile of my close fitting cropped top for my gold outfit using
a jersey fabric with a similar stretch to the gold lycra fabrics that I’ll be
using for my final garment. In my original design I put a concealed zip inside
the yoke with a pocket bag, I added this into the garment construction. As for
this project I am focusing solely on fashion construction, I wanted to
challenge myself and apply my technical pattern cutting and construction
skills. However Once seeing the outcome of my toile I have realised that the
pocket bag was an issue, because of the stretch fabric the 5 stitch overlocker
is the machine needed to join the fabrics together rather than a straight
stitch machine. Due to the bulkiness of the zip and the overlocker it was
difficult to get the stitching as close to the seams around the zip and zip
itself, creating unpleasant folds and lines around the yoke seam and zip. The
weight of the fabric is also an issue with the pocket bag, as my idea was for
the pocket to be hidden and as you can see from the photographs and the toile
itself the bag is extremely visible. I will experiment with other ways I can
create this toile until it is successful, perhaps I could add a wider zip into
the yoke seam as a decoration without a pocket bag. I really love the effect of
the drawstring collar and think it is extremely successful. I’m glad that I
widened the top of the collar to create a more dramatic effect that the collar
has and am looking forward to seeing it on the final garment. I will next
experiment the drawstring collar in the desired fabric to ensure I will be
happy with the end result.