Critical and Contextual: Presentation grade and feedback

Despite the nerves I had gained by working myself up for the whole presentation, I felt like I performed fairly well given the fact that I struggle intensely speaking in public, especially about my own work. 

I was rather pleased when I discovered I had passed and got a grade of 56%. Although not the best grade, I am keeping in mind that it was only my first presentation, I did struggle with some areas and used Q-cards. I am also fully understanding that within time and practice I will improve and my confidence will grow.

Critical and Contextual: Essay research

I started my research by revisiting the documentation and notes from my visit to the exhibition Horst: Photographer of Style at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London..

Horst P Horst

• Horst created images that transcended fashion and time
• Master of light, composition and atmospheric illusion
• Regular visitor to the Louvre
• Interest in ancient classical architecture and sculpture
• 'Nightgown by dubrulle modelled by Helen Bennett' 1938 - Pale skin in photography resembles marble
• Involving talents of photographer, model, art director, fashion editor, studio assistants and set technicians
• 'Extremes wet at Paris Spring Collections'
• Desire to create dark photographs caused clashes with Vogue staff
• Edna Woolman Chase (vogue) declared she had been lecturing Horst about the lack of light in his photography. He must overcome the state on the part of our photographers to shroud everything in the deepest mystery
• Haute Couture- Horst captures drama of pre war Parisian haute couture with his camera. Master of studio lighting. Expertly conveyed texture of luxury fabrics such as satin and silk.
• Evening wear was a key element of 1930s fashion
• Surreal beauty- Horst's sense of humour and imagination enabled him to produce arresting images even when tasked with capturing products such as lipstick or nailvarnish.
• Horst first worked with Salvador Dali in 1940
• 'I dress as I please' American Vogue - Mainbocher corset was the most alluring of fashion photographs. Depicts madame (something...) assuming the role of Venus. Proportions and contours of her body are as perfect as a classical statue. - Last photograph Horst made in Paris before the outbreak of war. It represented a turning point, the end of a charmed era
• (Film played on projector) out-takes from Fashion means business. Dorian Leigh models the latest american designs in the conde nast studio for Horst and his assistant Vassilov, overseen by vogue editors.
• 1930s ushered in huge technical advancements in colour photography.
• Horst adapted quickly to new visual vocabulary creating some of vogues most dazzling colour images.
• occupation of paris transformed the world of fashion

I also revisited my blog post about the visit V&A Trip: Horst, Disobedient Objects and Retail Therapy.

'Fashion is an expression of the times. Elegance is something else again.'

I looked into the definition of expression and elegance because I believed it was a good starting point to then go on to discuss this compared to other's opinions of the two.

I did a web search of quotes involving keywords such as 'elegance', 'expression', 'timeless' and 'beauty'. I also searched quotes by designers and artists which I considered relevant to my topic and possibly discussable in my future essay.

Here are my other notes in relation to my essay which I plan to use. (Please note: not all these notes make sense nor will be used, some pages may also include random nonsense and doodles!)

Critical and Contextual: Essay planning

As it had been over 3 or so years since I had written an essay, I found it extremely useful that our lecturer, Gill Morgan, had put seminars in place to familiarise ourselves with the layout, style and Harvard referencing - which is something I had one; never heard of before and two; had no clue how to do so. I also independently researched essay plans and examples of essays and Harvard referencing. Here are some print outs which I found useful in preparation of my essay:

Jumpsuit construction plan

I then created a construction plan for my side of the jumpsuit whilst Gauge created hers for her side. As a more visual person, I enjoy things drawn out for me, which is why I created my construction plan in Adobe Illustrator, along with the joining of mine and Gauge's halves (which you can see on the left page of my sketch book). Documenting the construction in photographs as I went, I stuck some in my book with fabric background to create a more appealing visual look.

Jumpsuit Construction Plan (for my side and the connection of both halves):

• Straight stitch the three front torso panels together, proceed to sew onto the front trouser panel still using a straight stitch sewing machine. After, overlock each hem.
• Repeat first stage with back panels.
• Sew darts on front panels using straight stitch overlocker (press before hand for a more precise stitch).
• Straight stitch across shoulders, then proceed to overlock.
• Sew dart on elbow on sleeve panel. Then sew sleeve to arm hole using straight stitch machine. Proceed to overlock.
• Sew along underarm and down side seam using straight stitch machine. Then overlock.
• Straight stitch cuff seam together, overlock. Stitch sleeve mouth then overlock.
• Straight stitch backs of mine and Gauge's half together to the crotch, proceed to overlock.
• Straight stitch collar to jumpsuit.
• Sew zip in and stitch rest of jumpsuit down to the crotch.
• Stitch legs together using straight stitch machine. Proceed to overlock.
• Straight stitch cuff seam and overlock. Straight stitch onto trouser mouth, then overlock.
• Hand stitch frogs onto my side of jumpsuit.

Critical and Contextual: Coco Chanel presentation notes

I wrote these notes to help me figure out what I wanted to say during the presentation. I obviously did not take all of these sheets in and read from during the presentation, instead I condensed these pages down, and down.. and down again, to create a small Q-Card of bullet points of what I wanted to say.

Critical and Contextual: Coco Chanel Presentation

Critical and Contextual: Presentation planning

As mentioned in a previous blog post Critical and Contextual: Reviewing and deciding upon a essay topic, I have to create and present a 8-10 minute presentation dealing with the work of one artist/designer. The presentation must include:

• an explanation of the philosophy behind their work
• who the work was produced for
• how the artist/designer was affected by the social history and politics of the time
• how the work was produced
• demonstrate my understanding of the chosen artist/designer's work through questioning by lecturer and peers

I began creating notes of what the presentation must contain:

One of the designers I was adamant in mentioning in my essay was Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, famously known as Coco Chanel. I wanted to include Chanel in my essay as she has always been looked upon as a lady of elegance, class and style by many people, including myself.

I started researching Coco Chanel's early life, personal life and her career. I made notes of this, as well as noting other relevant information:

Critical and Contextual: Reviewing and deciding upon a essay topic

In our module guide for our Critical and Contextual it states that 50% of my grade will be based on a illustrated essay of 2000 words, whilst the other 50% percent of my grade is marked on a audio visual presentation lasting the duration of 8-10 minutes.

Although the essay is formed of a lot of words, more than I've written in around 3 years, it was was the presentation performed to my peers which worried me the most. I am and never have been an overly confident person, nor a brilliant talker. I've always struggled with a slight nervous stutter and find it difficult to pronounce certain words, however once I found about that the presentations were going to be shown to small groups of around 6 people, my mind was set more at ease.

Instead of over-worrying myself about the presentation, I focused myself on preparing for the essay. I started this by reviewing the essay questions:

As you can see, I highlighted two questions which interested myself.

Question 7: What were the aims of the avant-garde in the 1920's and how successfully were they achieved? Use examples to discuss. - I took an interest to this question as the 20's is one of my favourite eras, not just in terms of fashion. I love how the souls of many were lifted from the distraught from the war and rebellion was used as a form of pleasure. F. Scott Fitzgerald's Great Gatsby is and will most probably always be one of my favourite books, illustrating this era so beautifully, and colourfully, its hard not to be envious of the times.

Question 8: 'Fashion is an expression of the times. Elegance is something else again.' Horst, 1984. Discuss this statement in light of your visit to the exhibition. - This question also appealed to me due to the fact that Horst is one of my favourite artists and photographers. I also felt like I had a higher advantage to this question compared to Question 7 as I had previously visited Horst's exhibition, Horst: Photographer of Style (mentioned in a previous blog post - click here to read) hosted at the V&A, London.

I reviewed each question carefully, which then led me to my final choice being, Question 8: 'Fashion is an expression of the times. Elegance is something else again.' Horst, 1984. Discuss this statement in light of your visit to the exhibition. 

Jumpsuit design development

Still sticking with the military style which I had decided upon in my previous designs, I began to incorporate the material pack that was given to me for this project. I experimented with the directions of the lined fabric to imitate the angled metal lines and panels on the Firstsite building. I then created a final design on Adobe Illustrator and added a short paragraph about the jumpsuit.