Reviewing my second year

Gender Games (Studio Module)
At the beginning of the module I struggled to get motivated for this project, maybe being it was the first of the year or I didn't feel entirely confident with the task in hand however after a few weeks of collecting information, various research and guidance from my peers and lecturers I was filled of ideas and was excited to start my designing process. I was pleased to find out that we could choose to produce a fashion or textile outcome or dabble in the both, which meant I didn't have to break my boundaries and create a textile outcome. I was really pleased with my final outcome for the project as I felt it reflected the message I wanted to create along with having the research and information to back it up.

Development of Fashion Construction (Support Module)
I was already looking forward to this module as I feel that construction is one of my strengths and I enjoy practicing and developing my skills. Rather than creating various types of samples with a fairly directed outcome which not much freedom to explore and design we were given the opportunity to go almost as crazy and innovative as we wanted. I enjoyed this freedom as I was able to independently design and develop my ideas into an outcome which I was satisfied with.

Next Childrens-wear Brief - Encounter Culture (Studio Module)
Although I have not completed this brief yet I feel like I have successfully pushed myself out my comfort zone and am completing a good standard and variety of work. I think that the Encounter Culture trend is an extremely successful mix with the Next girl's (2-6 year olds) clothing as there are so many possibilities and ideas to be explored. Although I am slightly disappointed that there is no physical outcome to the project - because how adorable would the tiny clothes be?! - I am excited to present my ideas to the company and am looking forward to their feedback.

Development/Breaking Textile Boundaries (Support Module)
As you can probably guess, I wasn't hugely excited for this brief given it being as one of my weaknesses. Again, we were able to have the freedom to choose what trend we wanted to follow and show through our work which I was happy about as I was able to choose a monotone and minimalistic trend. Reluctantly I have enjoyed the module so far and am looking forward to completing and having a successful print collection.

Developmental Research
Admittedly, I often struggle to keep concentration during lectures as I tend to become distracted easily. However I do enjoy the variety of information we receive from the various lecturers and guest speakers which volunteer their time and work for us as I believe all have payed an important and successful impact to my essay and will do leading up to my dissertation. I was able to narrow down subjects which I possess strong opinions for and enabled me to discover myself and my personal philosophy. I would describe my presentation as satisfactory, I know that I could have improved this however I know it could have gone worse.

Personal development plan

The second year of my degree has been focused on developing previous skills in order to create my own style and philosophy in my work, through this I have also been slowly discovering what I plan to do after my course and what I aim to achieve in the near and far future.

During the first semester of my second year I stayed in my comfort zone and produced a fashion garment as a final outcome to the Gender Games project as it is the area I feel most comfortable in and is my strongest asset in my opinion. When looking at the options for briefs in the second semester I was heavily interested with the M&S brief studying the 'Pause' trend as it appealed to me the most with its modernity and simplicity. However I decided I wanted to push myself outside my comfort zone in order to create a more varied collection of work, showing that I can do more than just one style of work.

Now I am coming to the end of my second year I think I can successfully say that I have completed and applied my short term and medium term goals from last year to my work. Them being:

• To successfully complete my first year
• Understand the course requirements for the future
• Expand my knowledge and skills
• Keep an open mind on new experiences and projects
• Develop and expand knowledge and skills
• Challenge my learning abilities

My short term objectives for this year:

• Continue successfully developing and understanding my own style of work, expanding my knowledge and skills with an open mind to new techniques
• Stay motivated in my work 
• Find the balance between my degree, my job and social life

My medium term objectives for this year:

• Begin to develop a brand for myself using social media, using my blog, instagram andtumblr to advertise and showcase my work
• Search for work placements and opportunities that I can use to my advantage in terms of my work and career

My long term objects remain almost the same as the previous year:

• Completion of my degree with the highest possible grade I can achieve
• Successfully achieve a name for myself in the fashion industry
• Explore future career options i.e. teacher training or business courses

SWOT analysis

SWOT is an acronym for the four words; strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats. By completing a SWOT it allows me to critically analyse and reflect myself and my work. I will be establishing my strengths, weaknesses, my opportunities and threats and begin to evaluate each individual one, allowing myself to develop further and improve not only myself but my work.

Strengths:

• A strong history of using technological processes from previous education and self taught lessons making me confident in using programs such as Adobe Photoshop and Adobe Illustrator.
• Experienced in fashion construction from pattern cutting to the construction of the garment itself.
• As I am quite the perfectionist I tend to try to put my all into my work in order to gain the best outcome I could possibly receive. 
• I enjoy writing and although I can struggle to get into it at times, once I'm 'in the zone' and am passionate about what I am writing I feel confident.
• I become enthusiastic about my work if I feel confident enough with a background of ideas to back myself up.

Weaknesses:

• I often have almost OCD-like tendencies when it comes to my own work. I like everything to be perfect and tend to over work and stress myself out if it's not up to my satisfaction.
• I can be quite stubborn and referring back to the perfectionist side of myself, like to do everything myself and often refuse to ask for help or advice as I'm too proud.
• I have a lack of confidence in interview and presentation situations due to my self esteem. I've never been a good public speaker however I feel I am improving as my course continues.
• Time management can be an issue for me, juggling a full time degree with a part-time job can often be a struggle especially with the given work load we are expected to complete.
• My attendance I doubt is nowhere near the 100% mark. This is often due to slight anxiety and stress which can also often merges into illness. I understand this isn't a weakness in my work itself but I feel that it needs to be addressed and resolved in order for me to achieve the highest standard of work possible for me.
• I often struggle to stay motivated and become distracted easily.

Opportunities:

• I have the rest of my degree course to resolve my weaknesses and improve my strengths such as further experience in textile processes - something I am not overly confident in -, practicing and improving public speaking and time to create a timetable of sorts to stay on top of my studies and social life.
• I have the summer ahead to start thinking about and eventually planning my dissertation.
• Summer and term breaks to organise work placements to gain knowledge about the industry.
• My presentation to Tanya from Next to showcase my ideas and collection to the brief given to me which would be a great contact to have in the industry as well as experience.
• Workshops to allow myself to develop new and better old skills at university or off campus.

Threats:

• My greatest threats are graduates studying the same or similar degrees as myself who are aiming for the same job roll as me, all across the country or even world.
• I am also a threat to myself, if I don't work on trying to improve my weaknesses and achieve my personal goals this could have a huge negative impact on my long term goals and potentially career.

Fashion Consumerism and the effects it has on the world culturally, socially and environmentally.

Fashion consumerism is a huge debate in today’s society and has been around for many years. Consumerism was first noticed and discussed the in 19^th century (2002 cited in Encyclopedia 2003) with the improved transport, technology and the speeding growth of towns and cities, the buying and selling opportunities were endless. Shopping became an important part of life and almost an everyday hobby. It was highly important to look and be wealthy, which is where the uproar for clothing and fashion came into the growth of consumer goods. People had and still have an unexplainable and impetuous urge to consume and waste goods. In this essay I shall be concentrating on the consumption and waste of fashion and clothing and the impacts it brings upon the world. This essay will firstly describe consumerism and the power it holds on us psychologically and emotionally, discussing various theories and tactics within the market. It will then discuss the birth of fast fashion and the pressure consumerism puts on fast fashion and the environment and concludes with how we can improve our world and build a sustainably working fashion and textile industry.

What is consumerism? The theory itself is the promotion of a consumer’s interest so that a continual expansion of consuming goods is believed to be desirable (Marriam-Webster 2016), Through television, printed and internet advertisement the consumer society is made to feel cravings towards buying goods through psychology which many marketers use to their advantage.

According to Rosenthal (2014), there are five psychological tactics marketers use to influence consumer behaviour: the usage of emotional ideas, highlighting the product flaws, repositioning the competition, promoting exclusivity of the product/brand and introducing fear, uncertainty and doubt. Using these tactics marketers are able to manipulate the consumer society into buying their products.

The more people are focused around and on materialistic values and goods, the more likely they are to experience anxiety or depression (Morgan et al. 2015). Referring back to the five psychological tactics of marketing, I have also noticed that many advertisements in these days use psychological tactics to make consumers believe that by purchasing these products their needs and happiness will be fulfilled. The WVS Charity is one company that uses the emotional tactic. In their WVS Donkey Appeal they use shocking facts and appalling images along with a disheartening music score playing over the two in order to reach out to the audience by making them feel pity for the Donkeys and support the appeal by donating to the cause.

Figure 1 - Maslow's Hierarchy of Needs

Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs is a theory that American psychologist Abraham Maslow proposed in 1943 (Maslow 2012). A theory that many people are familiar with, particularly media students, as it is often studied when looking into the analysis of advertising and film (Mathur 2007). Maslow’s theory proposed the priority of needs a person would need in order to fulfil their happiness, leading up to self-actualisation. At the bottom of the pyramid lies a person’s physiological needs (physical needs) i.e. water, food, clothing and shelter.

I believe that Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs is still used currently in everyday advertising in order to reach the target audiences attention and psychologically play on their emotions. By reaching out to the consumers by promoting the use of emotional ideas and other tactics the fashion industry creates a world where people believe they will be satisfied by having the latest products as they could feel a sense of connection (love and belonging) and respect of others (self-esteem) through the newest collections.

Consumerism is a huge part of the media culture and is regularly associated with Thorstein Veblen (Veblen 1899) and Earnest Elmo Calkins (Calkins 1916) who both criticised and predicted extensive consumption. Both practitioners observed the middle class in the 19^th and 20^th century and signified the level of consumption that would increase in the near future.

Calkins, who was born in Genesco, 1868, was an American advertising executive who pioneered the use of art in advertising. He illustrated for many companies and brands such as R&G Corsets and Lackawanna Railroad whilst cofounding his own modern advertising agency, Calkins & Holden. Calkin’s philosophy throughout life was understanding and creating advertisements, along with the new found knowledge of consumerism which he felt obliged to share with society through articles and books.

“Goods fall into two classes: those that we use, such as motor cars or safety razors, and those that we use up, such as toothpaste or soda biscuits. Consumer engineering must see to it that we use up the kind of goods we now merely use” (Calkins, 1930, p.130 cited in Usui, 2008, p.98). From a fashion perspective Calkins is essentially asking why would you want last season’s clothes, as they’re old and not desirable however this season’s clothes are much more desirable and attractive? In this statement. Consumerism promotes the accomplishment and status of throwing things out, that wasting builds social status and being able to afford and possess the newest, and most desirable clothing is much more attractive than retaining or reusing existing clothes.

Through the increasing wave of consumerism came the birth and development of the contemporary term ‘fast fashion’ (Joy, et al 2012). The phrase fast fashion refers to the traditional garment production processes which are expedited in order to transfer the new trends to the market as quickly and cheaply as possible, often mimicking current luxury fashion trends. As a result of our ever consuming society, the traditional two fashion seasons per year (Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter) have expanded through the years and provided us with more types of fashion.

Haute Couture is considered to be one of the most expensive styles of the fashion industry (English 2013). This is due to the extensive detail and precision work as well as being made with high quality fabrics, which still dominates the majority of the current fashion industry. It was not until the recent decades that the ready to wear (pret-a-porter), cruise and pre-collections arrived.

Many fashion crazed consumers may see fast fashion provided by retailers and fashion houses as a blessing. This new wave of marketing might be sending more money towards the retailer’s pockets but when you take account of the effects from other perspectives you begin to wonder whether it is more of a disadvantage to modern society.

Throughout the 1980’s and 1990’s globalisation continued to increase which led the mid price brands to shift the majority of their production to the developing world where the labour costs are just a small fraction of the labour costs in Europe. In 2006 it was reported by Cambridge University that consumers were buying one third more clothes than they had been in 2002 (Allwood 2007). It also stated that women have four times as many clothes in their wardrobe than they did in the 80’s.

Retailers now feel as if they must respond to fast developing fashion trends that change in a matter of weeks, as brands begin competing against each other for market share by introducing more and more lines each year at increasingly lower costs. Because of this many fashion houses now produce as much as 18 collections per year, which over the past 5 years has doubled in size. Due to the increase of interest of fashion week and fashion coverage in general via medias such as newspapers and the internet, the desire and urge to see, sell and own fashion is greater than ever. This has taken its toll on the pace of constructing garments which has now sped up to an outrageous three-week cycle compared to the traditional six months from factories to markets.

As a result of the ‘passion for fashion’ era it has put a great deal of pressure on the manufacturing supply chain. Many companies and buyers are constantly pressurising factories to deliver quality made garments with shorter and shorter manufacturing times, particularly ones in third world countries. In areas such as Bangladesh, the factories do not have the tools, equipment or expertise to manage this effectively, which can lead to a bigger strain on the workers. (news)

A study conducted in 2006 by Kantar Worldpanel (formerly TNS Worldpanel) stated “We now buy 40% of all our clothes at value retailers, with just 17% of our clothing budget” (2006, cited in Leblanc 2012: 22)

Many factories in third world countries experience over 10 hour shifts with no break, unfair treatment from employers and extremely little pay. With companies wanting their profits to be ever growing, they shift their manufacturing to the third world countries which as mentioned earlier, costs considerably less than manufacturing in countries such as the UK and USA. But even this is sometimes too much for some companies to pay and they negotiate their way through the market for the cheapest deal, comparing with competition who may have found a better offer. What people sometimes do not realise is that the cheaper the garment is to buy the less profit and income the factories receive and this then must be divided between the workers who often earn approximately £25 per calendar month (Morgan, et al 2015). But this is only just one of the side effects of fast fashion and fashion consumerism.

Global Warming is often discussed at this present time as so many people feel strongly about it and wish to help. The term global warming is used to describe the increase of temperature of the Earth’s atmosphere and oceans which has risen between 0.4 and 0.8 degrees Celsius over the past century (Kegley and Blanton 2014-2015). The believed cause of the increasing temperature is the large volumes of green house gases such as carbon dioxide which are released from the burning of fossil fuels, land clearing and agriculture which are thought to be the primary sources of global warming over the past 50 years.

Part of the effects of global warming is the predicted rise in sea levels due to the melting of polar ice caps – a cause from the increased temperature – as well as an increase of storms and more severe weather occurrences. In the near future, scientists predict that the Earth’s atmosphere could increase between 1.4 and 5.8 degrees Celsius by 2100 (Misra 2012). The US has witnessed the more intense downpour events over the past 70 years due to the rise in temperature. It is proven that the warmer the air is the more moisture it possesses or in other words, humidity which has caused more rain at much heavier downpours. In the 1930’s the average number of storms in the North Atlantic Ocean per year was between 8 and 9, which has almost doubled in 70 years, reaching 15 to 16 storm a year in 2007 (Roach 2007).

One of the main causes of global warming is the atmospheric pollution of greenhouse gases (GHG). These gases are in the world’s atmosphere that absorbs and emits radiation, trapping heat in the atmosphere making the Earth warmer. They are built up of 0.6% fluorinated gases, 4.9% nitrous oxide, 9.8% other gases, 30% methane and a huge 54.7% of the gases are carbon dioxide according to the United States Environmental Protection Agency (2016).

Figure 2 - Percentage of U.S. Gas Emissions in 2012

Worldwide we add to the carbon dioxide GHGs by burning fossil fuels to create, gasoline and some industrial and manufacturing processes, this is to create heat, electricity and products to use to our advantage. In this picture to the left it shows that electricity is the biggest source of GHG emissions in 2012, with transport coming in second at 28%, industrial sources at 20% and commercial and residential at 10%, all of which used to the fashion industry’s advantage.

As a fashion industry we need electricity to run the industrial and manufacturing processes, polluting the carbon dioxide from this to the Earth’s atmosphere, where the transportation of the garments adds another percentage. And not forgetting the advertisement of the products around the world using print and electrical media to showcase the latest products, also adding to the emissions but is there a way to decrease this? With our ever wanting society, studies have found that worldwide we purchase over 80 billion pieces of new clothing a year, which is 400% greater than we purchased just two decades ago. But the real question is, how much of this is being wasted and where?

It is estimated that the average American throws away the shocking amount of 82 pounds of textiles each year with the majority of the ‘waste’ being non-bio gradable, these items will be dumped into landfills and sit there 200 years or longer whilst releasing harmful gases into the air adding to global warming (Trepanier 2015). Another popular way of disposing of clothes is donating. Charities such as Oxfam, Macmillan and Age UK are just three organisations in the country that collect and accept clothing donations from the citizens of the UK. But what do they do with the donations?

Figure 3 - U.S. Donated Clothes in Haiti

Often people do not give much thought of where and what the organisations do with their belongings and clothes or just assume it is sold in their local charity shops/thrift stores. But what happens to the goods if they do not sell? It has been proven that just the small amount of 10% of donated clothes are sold in the stores and the rest is transported and dumped to third world countries such as Haiti (Trepanier 2015).

Culturally the fashion industry in Haiti is damaged and almost nonexistent due to the vast amount of US clothing ‘donated’ to charity. Because of the undesirable concept of buying second hand clothing, even if it is for a good cause. The 90% of clothing that cannot be sold by the stores is sent to Haiti in order to aid the less fortunate families. But this good deed has been overused and has effectively backfired on itself by overloading the country with too many clothes, which do not support the local’s religion or traditions. I do believe that originally the idea to donate the clothes to 3^rd world countries would have been successful and helpful to the people but with our lazy and constant consuming society have over worked the process and in effect has almost eliminated a society’s traditional clothing as a whole.

In 2015, the United Nations embraced 17 ‘Global Goals’ to make an end to poverty and together build a better world by 2030. Adopted by 193 world leaders at the UN’s annual General Assembly, these new goals are aimed to build on the progress of the Millennium Development Goals (MDGs) which were set in the 2000’s. Similar to the new Global Goals, the previous eight goals which ranged from decreasing extreme poverty rates and slowing down the spread of HIV/Aids, were also spread across a 15-year gap. The aim of the Global Goals, also referred to as the Sustainable Development Goals, is to complete the job of the MDGs over the next 15 years through to 2030.

Number 12 of the Global Goals actions is ‘Responsible Consumption and Production’ which I believe applies to the fashion industry and fashion production the most. One of this goals targets is to achieve sustainable management and efficient use of natural resources by 2030 (The Global Goals 2015). I believe by adapting and improving the fashion industry by using sustainable resources without disturbing or destroying part of the Earth’s natural materials such as cotton plants we can create Fairtrade and organic clothing in the industry and help achieve this goal.

In 1991, Safia Minney created a sustainable environmental campaign called Global Village which was the foundation of her fashion label, People Tree Ltd. The brand is a pioneer of Fairtrade, collaborating with fair trade artisans and farmers to produce ethical, sustainable and eco fashion collections. Their philosophy is creating a new way of business creating access to markets and opportunities for people who live in the developing world (Rivera 2015).

Figure 4 - Local Worker Hand Picking Cotton on an Indian Cotton Farm

Being partnered with Fairtrade cotton farmers and artisans for over 20 years, People Tree produce a range of 100% Fairtrade organic cottons using natural farming methods and natural pesticides made from herbs and soap to keep the number of pests down. No harmful methods, chemicals or poor treatment is used in the company and the workers from the developing world are paid fairly. Not only does using natural processes and pesticides for organic cotton growing protects the workers but helps protect the environment and can save farmers up to 3000 rupees per acre.

The Fair Trade Foundation says (2016: 7) “Organic farming is also good for the environment. It protects the planet by sequestering 1.5 tons of CO2 into the soil each year per acre.”

Using the same philosophy as companies such as People Tree, I believe we can introduce and develop new and existing sustainable and eco friendly ways of creating fashion and textiles. Other fashion houses such as Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood are also on the environmental wave creating and developing new ideas to reduce harmful environmental risks using processes such as waterless dying and choosing ‘quality over quantity’ by reforming business qualities and create Fairtrade and sustainable products.

To me, the world and environment around us is so alluring and often I struggle to believe how natural elements such as plants like cotton and flowers exist without being manmade. It’s truly amazing, from the microorganisms inside them to the overall physical aesthetic and I can’t believe how part of the society we live in chooses to ignore this and refuse to help or reduce the environmental strain on the world. I can only hope that I have the access to similar resources as brands such as People Tree in the future for my own work, using natural and organic products that have been made fairly and eco friendly. I will look to use and share new found sustainable processes and ideas I aim to come across with the fashion community in order to build a eco friendly and sustainable fashion industry worldwide.

The fashion industry is always about the next big thing and showcasing it as big and bold as possible. So why can’t this be the next contemporary movement?

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Reference List:

Allwood, J. (2007) Well Dressed? [Online] Available from:

http://www.cam.ac.uk/research/news/well-dressed

[Accessed 3/4/2016]

Calkins, E.E and Holden. R (1916) Modern advertising. New York: D. Appleton & Company

English, B. (2013) A Cultural History of Fashion in the 20^th and 21^st Centuries From Catwalk to Sidewalk. London: Bloomsbury Publishing Plc.

Encyclopedia (2003) Consumerism. [Online] Available from:

http://www.encyclopedia.com/topic/Consumerism.aspx#1

[Accessed 2/04/16]

Fair Trade Foundation (2016) People Tree. [Online] Available from:

http://www.fairtrade.org.uk/en/buying-fairtrade/cotton/people-tree#

[Accessed 7/4/16]

Joy, A, Sherry, J.F, Venkatesh, A, Wang, J and Chan, R. (2012) ‘Fast Fashion, Sustainability, and the Ethical Appeal of Luxury Brands’ Fashion Theory, Volume 16, Issue 3, pp. 273–296

Kegley, C.W and Blanton, S.L. (2014-2015) World Politics: Trend and Transformation 2014-2015 Edition. Canada: Cengage Learning

Leblanc, S. (2012) Sustainable Fashion Design: Oxymoron No more?  [Online] Available from:

http://www.bsr.org/reports/BSR_Sustainable_Fashion_Design.pdf

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http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/consumerism

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Maslow, A.H. (1943/2012) A Theory of Human Motivation. USA: Start Publishing LLC.

Mathur, U.C. (2007) Product and Brand Management. New Delhi: Excel Books.

Misra, K.C. (2012) Introduction to Geochemistry: Principles and Applications. West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

Morgan, A., Ross, M., Siegle, L., Firth, L., Piety, L., Vittorio. V and Harvey. C (2015) The True Cost [Online] Available from:

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Rivera, L. (2015) Style and Substance: How Ethical Brands Like People Tree Are Changing the Way We Think About Fast Fashion. [Online] Available from:

http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/style-and-substance-meet-the-ethical-fashion-brands-making-a-mark-in-london-a3085221.html

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Roach, J. (2007) Hurricanes Have Doubled Due to Global Warming, Study Says. [Online] Available from:

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Rosenthal, R. (2014) Five Psychological Tactics Marketers Use To Influence Consumer Behaviour [Online] Available from:

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The Goals Goals (2015) Responsible Consumption and Production. [Online] Available from:

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Trepanier. D (2015) The True Cost of Cheap Clothing. [Online]

Available from:

http://articlesofstyle.com/62475/the-true-cost-of-disposable-clothing/

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Usui, K. (2008) The Development of Marketing Management, The Case of the USA c.1910-1940. Aldershot: Ashgate Publishing Limited

Veblen, T. (1899/2012) The Theory of Leisure Class. USA: Start Publishing LLC.

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Illustrations list:

Figure 4: Renault, C. (2005) A woman picking cotton in a field near Nagarjuna Sagar — Andhra Pradesh, India. Digital Image [Online]. Available from: http://www.flickr.com/photos/clodreno/128382985/

[Accessed 6/4/16]

Figure 3 :United States Environmental Protection Agency (2016) Sources of U.S. Greenhouse Gas Emissions (2012). Digital Image [Online] Available from: https://www3.epa.gov/climatechange/kids/images/1-2-2-emissions.gif

[Accessed 7/4/16]

Figure 4: Woods, P. (2013), Pepe T-shirt 00035612. Digital Image [Online]. Available at: http://archive.instituteartistmanagement.com/id/00035612

[Accessed 8/4/16]

Figure 1: (1943) Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs Pyramid. Digital Image [Online] Available at: http://www.researchhistory.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/maslows-hierarchy-of-needs.gif

[Accessed 4/4/12]