gold cropped top construction

Creating the pattern pieces for the gold cropped top

(using the close fitting body shape block UK Size 10)

  

·       Trace close fitting body shape block

·       Measure 10cm down from neckline and draw across a straight horizontal line from the CF for the yoke seam

·       Mark 25cm from the neckline down for the hem at the CF

·       Measure 19.3cm down from the bottom of the arm and curve off from the CF to this mark, making a curved hem

·       Cut out the negative space of the block and use this curve as a guide for the curved back

·       Widen the neckline on the front and back blocks by 4cm and 1cm down

·       Measure the neckline from CF to shoulder and the same on the back, CB to shoulder and add the measurements together

·       Create a straight line the length of the added number (27.5cm), split and widen top of neckline by 2cm

Construction of the close fitting cropped top

(size 10)

Use:

Straight stitch sewing machine

5 stitch overlocker

Coverstitch machine

·      Cut out fabric using pattern pieces

·      Use the yoke of the front fuse where the zip is going to sit and using a straight stitch machine start stitching the 6” concealed zip with one half of the pocket bag trapped in between

·      Repeat on the bottom half of the top

·      Use the 5 stitch overlocker to stitch across either side of the zips (if the overlocker cannot reach this far, use the straight stitch inbetween)

·      Overlock the pocket bag together (sides and bottom)

·      Overlock the back yoke to the bottom half of the top back

·      Overlock the shoulders and side seams, RS together

·      Use the overlocker to neaten the armhole edges and hem of top

·      Press the edges of the arm and hem 1cm inwards and use the coverstich machine (RS up) to create a double stitched hem along edges

·      Use the overlocker to stitch down the side seam on the collar and neaten the edge of the collar

·      Press the edge of the collar 2cm inwards

·      Make a mark where the eyelet holes will go on the RS of fabric, apply fusing to this area on the inside of the garment

·      Press the eyelets in place on the collar

·      Overlock the collar to the neckline, lining up the side seam of the collar with the right shoulder seam

·      Thread the rounded elastic through the eyelets and round the collar, use the coverstitch machine to trap the elastic in the collar (without stitching on the elastic

·      Apply elastic toggle/stoppers and elastic ends to the drawstring

I constructed the toile of my close fitting cropped top for my gold outfit using a jersey fabric with a similar stretch to the gold lycra fabrics that I’ll be using for my final garment. In my original design I put a concealed zip inside the yoke with a pocket bag, I added this into the garment construction. As for this project I am focusing solely on fashion construction, I wanted to challenge myself and apply my technical pattern cutting and construction skills. However Once seeing the outcome of my toile I have realised that the pocket bag was an issue, because of the stretch fabric the 5 stitch overlocker is the machine needed to join the fabrics together rather than a straight stitch machine. Due to the bulkiness of the zip and the overlocker it was difficult to get the stitching as close to the seams around the zip and zip itself, creating unpleasant folds and lines around the yoke seam and zip. The weight of the fabric is also an issue with the pocket bag, as my idea was for the pocket to be hidden and as you can see from the photographs and the toile itself the bag is extremely visible. I will experiment with other ways I can create this toile until it is successful, perhaps I could add a wider zip into the yoke seam as a decoration without a pocket bag. I really love the effect of the drawstring collar and think it is extremely successful. I’m glad that I widened the top of the collar to create a more dramatic effect that the collar has and am looking forward to seeing it on the final garment. I will next experiment the drawstring collar in the desired fabric to ensure I will be happy with the end result.

colour palette

Final Major Project Proposal

μύθος

mýthos

Synopsis:

Influenced by the Ancient Greek demi-god Perseus and his most acclaimed mythical quest to slay the Gorgon Medusa. This collection will exhibit the hero's story through six singular coloured outfits representing the crucial elements of the myth, using oversized athletic silhouettes.  incorporating relevant fabrication and treatments such as quilting, drawstrings and oversized cuts to give the effect of draping in a reimagined non-traditional style.

Aims and objectives:

-   Create and work to an independently written brief and schedule throughout the course of this project, managing time and organisation skills

-   Identify a target audience/market for my work using appropriate creative and market research

-   Extensive idea development, documentation, analysation and sampling – evidencing clear evaluative thinking and critical appraisal/analysing

-   Use of previous technical skills in fashion design, illustration, pattern cutting and garment construction

-   Evidence of analytical judgement in the selection of final design ideas

-   Recordation of costings and technical information for the production of work, i.e. fabric costs – expense sheet

-   Presentation of ideas to a professional standard in a portfolio using appropriate formats

-   Use technical processes creatively to produce professional outcomes

-   Achieve a professional standard of preparation and presentation in the exhibiting of my work – i.e. end of year exhibition planning

-   Self-assessment - analysis of personal management and progress during the module, i.e. critical appraisal

Research:

-   Use of primary research i.e. sketching, illustrating and mark making

-   Secondary research from resources such as books, the internet, previous collections of fashion designers and artists

-   Visiting of relevant exhibitions, shows and media (such as films) to collect research

Perseus’ quest along with many Greek hero’s, god’s and myths are documented through various medias such as literature, vases and pottery as well as artistic paintings – which I can find at the British museum, collecting research to create a visual story board and research map/s which will create a strong start to my project.

Using research of contemporary and historical sportswear from shops, books and the latest and past collections from fashion shows I will be able to collect of contemporary sportswear fabrics which I will incorporate within my garments.

Working methods:

-   Collection of 2d work in sketchbook i.e. primary research sketches, illustrations, designs

-   3d products – fabrication and technical samples, final outcomes

-   Construction abilities using the machines, i.e. industrial sewing machines, overlockers and coverstitch machine

-   Use of technical skills creating digital flats and professional portfolio utilising my previous technical abilities on Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator

Materials and processes:

I understand that to achieve my outcome I will need to create professional relationships with companies and contacts such as fabric suppliers and digital printing services.

-   Use of athletic/sports related fabrics such as lycra, jersey, airtex mesh, stretch mesh, jersey, neoprene, scuba, towelling, sweatshirt jersey etc.

-   Create a contact/suppliers file of agencies that I will be using i.e. Chrissane (lycra/dancewear specialist fabric suppliers), Kleins (trimmings, fastenings and tool suppliers), Maculloch and Wallis (technical fabric suppliers) – all which I believe will play an important part in my project aiding me to achieve my desired outcomes.

Audience/market:

My womenswear sports-luxe, mythological collection will be designed for Autumn Winter 2018, desired from the age group of 18-30 year olds who have an interest in athleisure, avant-garde fashion.

References and Bibliography:

-   Atkinson M. (2012). How to create your final collection. Laurence King

-   Renfrew E. (2009). Developing a collection. ava

-   Chunman D. (2011). Pattern Cutting. Lawrence King

-   Nakamicihi T. (2011). Pattern Magic. Lawrence King

-   Wesen Brant, M . (2011). Fashion Drawing. Lawrence King

-   Szkutnicka B. (2010). Technical Drawing for Fashion. Lawrence King

-   Fischer A. (2009). Construction. ava

-   Swaddling, J. (2015) The Ancient Olympic Games, China; Toppan Leefung Printing Ltd.

-   Houston, M G. (2012) Ancient Greek, Roman and Byzantine Costume, New York: Dover Publications, Inc.

-   Ford, J. (2004) The Twelve Labours of Hercales, Brighton: The Salariya Book Company Ltd.

-   Lee, M M. (2015) Body, Dress and Identity in Ancient Greece, New York: The Cambridge University Press.